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Post by sabre on Feb 18, 2023 19:59:22 GMT 12
West system epoxy cure time before painting? Anyone have any thoughts on this? Google hasn't been very helpfull..
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2023 19:59:56 GMT 12
best guess 24hrs
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Post by Hugh Jorgan on Feb 19, 2023 6:22:44 GMT 12
If overcoating with epoxy undercoat, which you intend to sand smooth for a top coat, then as soon as it is hard enough to push your thumb on to the film without leaving a thumb print, bang on next Coat, (min recoat time)
If left to fully cure (max recoat time) the sanding is required to get a key
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Post by GO30 on Feb 19, 2023 7:45:34 GMT 12
I always peelply which leaves a ready to paint surface.
As soon as its hard enuff to sand well without clogging the paper or rolling into small balls shs good to go.
Sand well to lose the wax coating crap that cures on top. Hence the peelply which removes all that when u pull it off. I use peel ply even on good size glue joint.
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Post by Cantab on Feb 19, 2023 8:10:30 GMT 12
Wash epoxy with water before painting or sanding. Letting it fully cure then sand and paint is the more reliable route. 3-4 days. Keep some left over in pot, you'll see how long it really takes to cure. When it's brittle it's done.
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Post by DuckMaster on Feb 19, 2023 13:40:41 GMT 12
West system epoxy cure time before painting? Anyone have any thoughts on this? Google hasn't been very helpfull.. So when it comes to West System epoxy, the cure time can vary depending on things like temperature and humidity. Generally, it's a good idea to give it at least 24 hours to fully cure before you start sanding or painting over it. But keep in mind that the curing process is pretty complex and can be affected by lots of different factors, like the specific West System epoxy product you're using. So to be on the safe side, it's always a good idea to check the product datasheet or manufacturer's guidelines for the most accurate cure times and other important info. Oh, and if you're planning to paint over the epoxy, it's super important to make sure the surface is properly prepped so the paint will stick well. This might mean using a surface prep solution or doing some sanding to get rid of any leftover debris. This site has a list of cure times based on the hardener of choice. www.westsystem.com/hardener-selection-guide/Hope that helps! What are you making?
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Post by sabre on Feb 19, 2023 15:11:17 GMT 12
Thanks all. Sounds like 24hrs is the general consensus. I have painted over plenty of epoxy but I'm not usually ready to go the next day so this gives me some peace of mind.
Nothing too exciting DM just glassing up the old window holes so I can fit smaller and stronger windows 👍
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Post by Hugh Jorgan on Feb 19, 2023 16:21:28 GMT 12
WTF!.... I worked with West for decades. It is solvent free, amine free, and does not wax up. Thumb print test is best ( tells you that cross linking has occurred 100%) . Then immediately epoxy undercoat to get chemical bond. Allowing to fully cure then sanding/cleaning is inferior and why Sand a epoxy resin and possibly the glass when sanding a undercoat is easier. Extra sanding introduces extra time, contamination... I used to train the pro's on the efficiencies and economics of systems and they never Sand a resin. Peel ply and infusion methods are different scenarios for another day www.westsystem.com/105-epoxy-resin/
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Post by Hugh Jorgan on Feb 19, 2023 16:27:34 GMT 12
Oh ...and once undercoated (interprotect for you non pro's is the best) you have a surface that has no max recoat time thus you can do what you like.
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Post by GO30 on Feb 19, 2023 17:36:44 GMT 12
When expoy has cured the chances there is some Amine blush is near inevitable. You need to remove that and any gloss if you want a well bonded long term finish.
You can wash the blush off with water and scouring pad like a scothbrite or similar. Rub it dry immediately or it resettles on the surface.
The best way to remove the gloss is sanding.
Hence I like peel ply, it removes that clean up/prep.
If you are using 105 with 205 or 206 and it's not ready to to go after 24hrs you have been visited by Mr Cock Up.
The paint chemists and I did a lot of test panels prior to using it on the boats. Cleaning and sanding the expoy was a must. The paint would just not sit on vertical unpreped surfaces, gravity won everytime.
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Post by sabre on Feb 19, 2023 17:42:36 GMT 12
I had a lot of fllling and fairing to do so not sanding wasn't an option. I'm using Altex barrier undercoat as I have lots of experience with it. Elite 321 over the top.
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Post by GO30 on Feb 19, 2023 18:42:58 GMT 12
You want to be a little cautious about expoxy over cured expoy as well. That blush can be a right bitch.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2023 19:30:05 GMT 12
epoxy over /on epoxy no issues. Its when you try putting polyester over polyester or expoxy over polyester.
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Post by em on Feb 19, 2023 20:25:02 GMT 12
I leave it for at least a couple of months to go a nice yellow colour before sanding and painting
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Post by Hugh Jorgan on Feb 19, 2023 22:10:25 GMT 12
Amine sweats ( not to be confused with wax surfactants that are used to protect the film during cure) are easily eliminated by using peel ply which transfers the amine sweat to the surface of the pp
However using a poly amide cured undercoat just in the window of "just cured " TO MAX RECOAT TIME ( FULLY CURED) ELIMINATES THE AMINE SWEAT and allows easier sanding.
We still remove dust with dry vacuum then water wash followed by black Tack cloth test.
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