Post by ComfortZone on Sept 20, 2023 12:02:08 GMT 12
New Caledonia impressions
I started writing this a couple of weeks ago however it was lost when my data connection dropped out, so here goes again whilst we are waiting for rain to pass
1. Nice to be in a first world environment after Vanuatu, at least in Noumea.
2. Contrary to a lot of prejudices we have found almost everyone we have encountered very friendly and helpful. A round of applause for the ladies at Port Moselle marina who are very patient and helpful addressing any request. The local motorists do drive with a typically French verve.
3. Clearing in was very straight forward, the marina office emails your entry form and last clearance to Customs, who you never see unless you have declared boat load of grog, the quarantine lady showed up within a couple of hours of arriving and was pretty easy going, took our remaining fruit and veges, had a half-hearted peek in the freezer and a quick look round, including lifting the tea towel on the just cooked quiche to use up our remaining eggs and was gone. Went to Immigration next morning, only open 0800 – 11.30 Mon – Fri to hand over one more form and that was it. No entry charges. For departure offices are only open Mon – Fri, however you can clear out on Friday and get away with hanging around over the weekend before leaving. Some boats clear out and then go and sit at Isle of Pines waiting for a weather window, they are taking a risk on this.
4. Getting online is not easy and expensive due to the OPT (French Post) monopoly. Whilst we were on the marina we were able to hook into its courtesy WiFi. If you are in New Caledonia longer than 1 mth you can take out a contract with somewhat reasonable rates, 50GB/mth was approx. NZD$115, for shorter periods you are stuck with the 10 day tourist SIMs. Easy solution, have Starlink onboard!
5. In general New Cal lives up to its reputation for being expensive, even when grocery shopping at the Geant Hypermarche. We have only had one restaurant meal, about 10% more than you would expect in Auckland. There is a produce and fish market adjacent to Port Moselle marina with good quality. By the way you do not swim in Port Moselle, have been several shark attacks.
6. We had no problem getting a berth at Port Moselle marina, about $55/night for 14.5m. You can anchor out, but you are having to deal with moored boats and in the NW corner of the harbour a bit of a fetch. You need 3rd Party PL to berth at the marina. I remember back in 2019 it was much harder to get a berth, I think it is better now because they have extended the marina and there are less cruising yachts around this year.
7. Noumea is very hilly, consider this if you are planning to walk any distance.
8. Fuel is mixed, petrol is cheaper than NZ, about NZD$2.55, diesel between NZD$2.25 and NZD$2.60 depending on whether you buy it at a gas station (cheaper) or the marina dock.
9. There are very few cafes around the city centre
10. Best Boulangerie and Patisserie in Noumea is Les Petits Choux, heavenly
11. The Rocket Cruising Guide cruising-newcaledonia.com/index.html is subject to a fair amount of discussion as to whether it is worth its Euro 125 cost (10% discount for ICNZ members). We have not bought it. I suggest it is probably worthwhile if you are going to circumnavigate le Grande Terre, less so if just cruising the south. I have an old version which anyone is welcome to a copy, just PM me with your email.
12. Navionics charts are pretty good as are the CMAP charts in my plotter. There is also Zulu Offshore app for anchorages
13. Weather – New Caledonia has its own met office and issues updates 3 x daily. www.meteo.nc/
It blows from the south east most of the time, getting to Isle of Pines is a bit of a mission as we are finding.
The water is not very warm for swimming, been in once in a wet suit, felt like Gt Barrier a Xmas.
14. You need to stock up in Noumea before cruising le Grande Terre and/or the Southern Lagoon. There is the odd general store at some towns on le Grande Terre and 2 on the Isle of Pines, but only selling basics. There is someone running an online shopping service in Noumea who will make your purchases and put them on the ferry to Isle of Pines. easymealnco.com/ . Might have to give it a go ourselves as fresh produce is getting down.
15. If you anchor anywhere on the shore line of le Grande Terre, be very diligent about cleaning the red mud off your chain and anchor as you bring it up, if not it will permanently stain your decks
16. The New Cal govt has provided moorings in coral sensitive areas, we are currently hanging off one at Ilot Casy, Baie de Prony and there are also moorings at Anse Majik where there is a walk to the light house. There are also moorings at a “dangerous” location, Ilot Maitre, the dangerous part being the proximity of the Double Tree Hilton’s bar on the Ilot
17. The most sheltered anchorage in the south is Baie de Carrenage, top end of Baie de Prony. Recognised as a hurricane hole, we sat there several days last week whilst the weather went through. There are some warm pools at the head of the NE arm.
18. There is a large haul out area and marine services precinct in the NE corner of Port Moselle harbour. This is where I saw Slime with her new bows. The chandlery there is well stocked but prices will bring tears to your eyes.
I started writing this a couple of weeks ago however it was lost when my data connection dropped out, so here goes again whilst we are waiting for rain to pass
1. Nice to be in a first world environment after Vanuatu, at least in Noumea.
2. Contrary to a lot of prejudices we have found almost everyone we have encountered very friendly and helpful. A round of applause for the ladies at Port Moselle marina who are very patient and helpful addressing any request. The local motorists do drive with a typically French verve.
3. Clearing in was very straight forward, the marina office emails your entry form and last clearance to Customs, who you never see unless you have declared boat load of grog, the quarantine lady showed up within a couple of hours of arriving and was pretty easy going, took our remaining fruit and veges, had a half-hearted peek in the freezer and a quick look round, including lifting the tea towel on the just cooked quiche to use up our remaining eggs and was gone. Went to Immigration next morning, only open 0800 – 11.30 Mon – Fri to hand over one more form and that was it. No entry charges. For departure offices are only open Mon – Fri, however you can clear out on Friday and get away with hanging around over the weekend before leaving. Some boats clear out and then go and sit at Isle of Pines waiting for a weather window, they are taking a risk on this.
4. Getting online is not easy and expensive due to the OPT (French Post) monopoly. Whilst we were on the marina we were able to hook into its courtesy WiFi. If you are in New Caledonia longer than 1 mth you can take out a contract with somewhat reasonable rates, 50GB/mth was approx. NZD$115, for shorter periods you are stuck with the 10 day tourist SIMs. Easy solution, have Starlink onboard!
5. In general New Cal lives up to its reputation for being expensive, even when grocery shopping at the Geant Hypermarche. We have only had one restaurant meal, about 10% more than you would expect in Auckland. There is a produce and fish market adjacent to Port Moselle marina with good quality. By the way you do not swim in Port Moselle, have been several shark attacks.
6. We had no problem getting a berth at Port Moselle marina, about $55/night for 14.5m. You can anchor out, but you are having to deal with moored boats and in the NW corner of the harbour a bit of a fetch. You need 3rd Party PL to berth at the marina. I remember back in 2019 it was much harder to get a berth, I think it is better now because they have extended the marina and there are less cruising yachts around this year.
7. Noumea is very hilly, consider this if you are planning to walk any distance.
8. Fuel is mixed, petrol is cheaper than NZ, about NZD$2.55, diesel between NZD$2.25 and NZD$2.60 depending on whether you buy it at a gas station (cheaper) or the marina dock.
9. There are very few cafes around the city centre
10. Best Boulangerie and Patisserie in Noumea is Les Petits Choux, heavenly
11. The Rocket Cruising Guide cruising-newcaledonia.com/index.html is subject to a fair amount of discussion as to whether it is worth its Euro 125 cost (10% discount for ICNZ members). We have not bought it. I suggest it is probably worthwhile if you are going to circumnavigate le Grande Terre, less so if just cruising the south. I have an old version which anyone is welcome to a copy, just PM me with your email.
12. Navionics charts are pretty good as are the CMAP charts in my plotter. There is also Zulu Offshore app for anchorages
13. Weather – New Caledonia has its own met office and issues updates 3 x daily. www.meteo.nc/
It blows from the south east most of the time, getting to Isle of Pines is a bit of a mission as we are finding.
The water is not very warm for swimming, been in once in a wet suit, felt like Gt Barrier a Xmas.
14. You need to stock up in Noumea before cruising le Grande Terre and/or the Southern Lagoon. There is the odd general store at some towns on le Grande Terre and 2 on the Isle of Pines, but only selling basics. There is someone running an online shopping service in Noumea who will make your purchases and put them on the ferry to Isle of Pines. easymealnco.com/ . Might have to give it a go ourselves as fresh produce is getting down.
15. If you anchor anywhere on the shore line of le Grande Terre, be very diligent about cleaning the red mud off your chain and anchor as you bring it up, if not it will permanently stain your decks
16. The New Cal govt has provided moorings in coral sensitive areas, we are currently hanging off one at Ilot Casy, Baie de Prony and there are also moorings at Anse Majik where there is a walk to the light house. There are also moorings at a “dangerous” location, Ilot Maitre, the dangerous part being the proximity of the Double Tree Hilton’s bar on the Ilot
17. The most sheltered anchorage in the south is Baie de Carrenage, top end of Baie de Prony. Recognised as a hurricane hole, we sat there several days last week whilst the weather went through. There are some warm pools at the head of the NE arm.
18. There is a large haul out area and marine services precinct in the NE corner of Port Moselle harbour. This is where I saw Slime with her new bows. The chandlery there is well stocked but prices will bring tears to your eyes.